Tateishi
A Katsushika drinking town where standing up to drink is normal.
Tateishi, in Katsushika Ward, is a drinking town where standing bars and yakitori shops line the narrow lanes around Keisei Tateishi Station. The old Nonbe Yokocho alley by the north exit was demolished in 2023 for redevelopment, and today's drinking lanes are centred on Tateishi Nakamise by the south exit. The name comes from a stone known as Tateishi-sama, which sits in a children's playground about a ten-minute walk from the station.
A narrow covered lane running through the middle of Tateishi. The town is known for what is called senbero — a contraction of sen, a thousand yen, and berobero, roaring drunk. Red lanterns and hand-lettered signs, one after another.
Arrive by 5 PM on weekdays to snag a stool before the after-work crowd floods in.
Photo: Dick Thomas Johnson from Tokyo, Japan / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
A shopping street running several hundred metres. Fishmongers, tofu makers and wagashi shops handed down through families stand along it, and the people who live nearby do their daily shopping here. Almost nothing on it is aimed at souvenirs.
Many shops close on Wednesdays, so plan your visit for other days of the week.
Founded in the Chōhō era (999–1003) and, by tradition, dedicated by Abe no Seimei — the court diviner of Heian-period legend. Working from the five-element cosmology of onmyōdō, he is said to have laid out the precinct as a regular pentagon, which is why it is called Gohōzan, the five-direction mountain. That pentagonal ground survives unchanged, and the shrine is the only one in the Kantō region with a Seimei founding tradition.
About 15 minutes on foot from the station, away from the drinking streets. The pentagon is hard to read at ground level — the shrine's own site shows the layout, which makes the walk make more sense.
A tuff boulder in a children's playground, housed in a small Inari shrine. It gave the town its name, probably came here as part of an ancient burial chamber, and later served as a marker on the old highway. Only a little of it shows above ground now.
Eleven minutes from the station, in the opposite direction from the bars. It is genuinely small and easy to walk past — look for the shrine inside Tateishi Children's Park.
A standing-only motsuyaki (grilled offal) bar inside the Tateishi Nakamise arcade, open from 2pm on weekdays. It was once ranked alongside Edokko and Mitsuwa as one of "Tateishi's three great motsuyaki shops," but both of those closed when redevelopment reached their block — Ucchida is the one that's still standing. Skewers are handed over the counter the moment they're ready; you choose sauce or salt yourself.
It closes the moment the day's stock runs out, sometimes before 7pm. The handoff-and-payment routine has a lot of unwritten local rules, but that's part of the initiation. Cash only.
The only branch ever split off from Funawa, the Asakusa confectioner known for imo-yōkan. The third-generation owner's grandfather was related to the Asakusa shopkeeper and trained at the main store before opening here; the shop has now passed eighty years. The imo-yōkan is still made by hand from nothing but sweet potato, salt and sugar — no binder — to the original recipe.
It is a sweet shop that also serves alcohol, so it works as an afternoon stop between bars. A minute from the station, inside the arcade.
Not a standing bar but a sit-down grill house, and the counterweight to Tateishi's cheap-and-fast reputation. The shop buys whole A4–A5 wagyu, has it delivered the morning it is butchered, and breaks it down in house, which is what lets it put out offal cuts that rarely reach a menu.
Closed Mondays (open if Monday is a holiday, closed the next day instead). Prices sit well above the senbero bars a minute away, so plan it as a separate evening rather than one stop on a crawl.
A small Chinese place near the station known simply as the gyōza shop. The dumplings are made by hand — crisp on the seared face, chewy in the skin — and they are what people come for rather than the wider menu.
Three minutes from the station, on the south side. Small and cash-friendly; expect a counter rather than a dining room.
The town is named after a rock. It sits in a children's playground about ten minutes from the station, inside a small shrine, and today only a little of it shows above the soil. It is tuff from Bōshū, quarried across the bay near Mount Nokogiri in Chiba, and it almost certainly arrived here as part of a burial chamber — there were ancient tombs in this area. By the Nara and Heian periods it had been repurposed again, standing beside the old official highway as a marker. A stone brought over water, used for the dead, then for travellers.
By the Edo period people called it the rooted stone, and it stood more than sixty centimetres proud of the ground. They also said you could not dig it out. A collection of strange tales compiled in 1825 records a landowner who tried: he dug and found no bottom, and the next day the stone had sunk into the hole, and the day after that it was standing above ground again. Another story held that the Nakagawa river bends here because the stone could not be shifted out of its way. In 1805 the village headman and others built a small stone shrine over it. Attempts to excavate continued into the modern era and were abandoned — no bottom appeared, and neighbours who feared the consequences objected.
In the summer of 2023 the alleys behind the north exit came down. Nonbei Yokocho, seventy years of drinking dens, went to demolition in a matter of months and the ground behind the fences is bare while a new station is built. It is a strange thing to hold both facts at once: a quarter that everyone assumed was permanent has gone, and a rock that people have been unable to move for a thousand years is still sitting in a playground, showing a little less of itself each century.
The covered arcade beside the station is a daytime shopping street, but from late afternoon the standing bars along it open and the hand-painted signs light up one by one. The narrow passage under low ceilings, lit orange, is the image most people picture when they hear the name Tateishi.
Most places start serving around 15:00 and fill up early. Note that the north-side Nonbei Yokocho alley was cleared for redevelopment, and the area around the station continues to change.
This site may contain affiliate links (Advertising Policy)
One of the very few places to stay in Tateishi itself, four minutes from the station. Small and plain, but it puts you inside the drinking quarter rather than commuting to it — which is the whole reason to come here in the evening.
宿の数が少ないため早めの予約を。
Septhe 16th
Gohozan Kumano Shrine
The shrine is held to have been founded in the Choho era by the onmyoji Abe no Seimei, laid out on the principles of the five phases — its grounds are a pentagon. The object of worship is an ancient stone sword. Since the district's name also comes from a stone, Tateishi has two stones of quite separate origin.
Dates shift from year to year. Check the shrine or organiser before you plan around one.
Times are for a typical daytime weekday and fares are ordinary tickets, rounded. Both change — check a route planner on the day.
Keisei-Tateishi is on the Keisei Oshiage line — not the Tobu line, and not reachable directly from Kinshicho. From Oshiage it is about 7 minutes. Because the Keisei Oshiage line runs through onto the Toei Asakusa line, you can reach it without changing trains from Nihonbashi, Higashi-Ginza or Shimbashi (about 27 minutes from Shimbashi); just check that your train is bound for Keisei-Takasago or Aoto. Note that only local trains stop at Keisei-Tateishi, so express services will pass through.
Weekday evenings from 5 PM to 9 PM are the golden hours — workers flood in from nearby factories and offices, the bars fill up, and the energy is electric. Weekends are also lively but feel slightly more curated. Avoid national holidays if you want the authentic everyday atmosphere.
Do not take photos of people without asking — many regulars at these bars prefer to drink quietly without being documented. A simple smile and a 'shashin, ii desu ka?' (May I take a photo?) goes a long way. Also, most bars are cash-only, so carry small bills and coins.
The name comes from a stone — Tateishi-sama, the standing stone. It sits in a small children's park about ten minutes' walk from the station, and is thought to have been part of the chamber of an ancient burial mound. In the Nara and Heian periods it appears to have served as a marker on the road.