TOKYO BACKSTREETS
Tokyo backstreets, station by station.
Every station guide on this site splits in two: the sights you already came for, and what stands one street behind them. This page collects the second half.
What counts as a backstreet here
Not a secret, and not a discovery. Most of these places are known perfectly well by the people who live nearby — they simply sit off the line between the station and the landmark, so visitors walk past the turning. A standing bar under the tracks. A shopping street that kept its shutters. A temple at the bottom of a hill you would otherwise have no reason to descend.
The list is grouped by area. Each station links through to its own guide, where you will find how to reach the place, what time of day it is worth seeing, and — for most stations — our own photographs. Hours and shutters change; where somewhere is small, cash-only or open only after dark, the station page says so.
Backstreets by area
East / Shitamachi
Asakusabashi浅草橋
Neither the gate nor the bridge was ever in Asakusa; both stood on the road that led there. The doll wholesalers have been on this ground for three centuries.
Down the side streets
Asakusabashi Suga Shrine · Ichoogaoka Hachiman Shrine · Kanda River Backstreet Walk · Uragawa-dori Back Alley Wholesalers · Parts Club main shop · Festival & Event Decoration Wholesalers · Kyugetsu Dolls, Asakusabashi head shop · Izakaya Alleys near Asakusabashi Station · Kissa Yuraku
Ryogoku両国
Two provinces, joined by a bridge after the fire of 1657. At the centre of the district is a park that exists because of what happened on the ground it covers.
Down the side streets
Kyu-Yasuda Garden · Sumida River Promenade · Yokoamicho Park & Tokyo Memorial Hall · Sumida Hokusai Museum
Asakusa浅草
A temple founded in 628 around a figure two fishermen pulled from the river. The buildings you see around it are all reconstructions.
Down the side streets
Hanayashiki Amusement Park · Asakusa Engei Hall & the Rokku District · Sumida Park & the Riverside Walk to Mukojima · Denboin-dori Street · Free Skytree View from Asakusa Culture Tourist Information Center · Kappabashi Kitchen Town · Sometaro — Old-School Monjayaki · Kamejyu — One of Tokyo's Three Great Dorayaki · Nishi-Sando Covered Arcade
Kinshicho錦糸町
The canal the district is named after has been filled in — the one where a voice was said to come out of the water and tell you to leave the fish behind.
Down the side streets
Kinshi Park (錦糸公園) · Tatekawa Shinsui Park · Sunamachi Ginza Shopping Street · Rakutenchi and the Betting Crowd · Sarue Onshi Park · Tachinomi Iki · Thai Kitchen · Tenjin Senbei Okiya (hand-grilled rice crackers) · Keirin · Shirakaba (Wagashi) · Mankeiken (duck ramen)
Oshiage押上
Until 2012 the station at the foot of the tower was called Narihira-bashi, after a poet who stopped at this river and asked a bird about the city he had left.
Down the side streets
Kyojima neighbourhood streets · Hikifune Sakura-dori · Oshiage station underpass murals · Mukojima Hyakka-en garden · Oshiage shotengai (old shopping street) · Sumida River Brewing (craft beer)
Kameido亀戸
Kamejima was an island of silt at the river mouth, said to be shaped like a turtle. The channels filled in long ago and the name is the only part left.
Down the side streets
Kyu-Nakagawa Riverside Park · Kameido Katori Shrine · Kameido's Retro Drinking Alleys · Early-Morning Shot from the Drum Bridge · Atre Kameido Rooftop Garden · Kameido Seven Lucky Gods Walk · Tategawa Riverside Park · Horumon Yakiniku Joints (Kameido Hormone, Yoshidaya, Aoki) · Tenjin Senbei Okiya (hand-grilled rice crackers)
Kita Senju北千住
The first post town on the Oshu highway, north of the Arakawa. Basho set out for the north from here, and the drinking alleys off the west exit are still narrow.
Down the side streets
Old Post-Town Backstreets and the Yokoyama House · Oku no Hosomichi Yatate-Hajime no Chi (Basho Departure Monument) · West-Exit Drinking Alleys (Senju 2-chome) · Arakawa Riverbank Cycling Road (Kita-Senju toward Ayase) · Showa-Era Kissaten around the Station
Tateishi立石
The town is named after a rock in a children's playground. It is tuff quarried across the bay in Chiba, and only a little of it now shows above the soil.
Down the side streets
Tateishi Nakamise After Dark · Tateishi-sama (the stone the town is named after) · Ranshū (gyōza)
Central
Ginza銀座
The silver mint that gave the district its name moved away in 1801. The willows came later, and only because they were the one tree the high water would not kill.
Down the side streets
Okuno Building · Ginza Graphic Gallery (ggg) · Kakugo Inari Shrine on the GINZA SIX Roof · Bar Rockfish · Cafe de l'Ambre
Ningyocho人形町
Edo kabuki began here. The theatres were moved to Asakusa by the Tempo reforms, and what stayed behind was the name of the souvenir — dolls
Down the side streets
Koami Shrine · Hamacho Park · Nihonbashi Primary School · Yanagiya Taiyaki
Shimbashi新橋
Where Japan's first railway departed. The bars now fill the arches and the alleys, and SL Plaza is where television goes to interview drunk office workers
Down the side streets
Karasumori Shrine · New Shimbashi Building · Sky View (Caretta Shiodome, 46F) · The drinking alleys of Karasumori · Uokin Sohonten
Hamamatsucho浜松町
Twenty-four minutes to Haneda, twenty-four hours to the islands — the station that faces the sea
Down the side streets
Shiba Daijingu · The waterfront at Hinode and Shibaura · The Peeing Boy (platforms 3–4) · Ippekoppe (curry from the Aoki tonkatsu group) · Menya Musashi, Hamamatsucho · Shiba-Shinmei Eitaro
Akihabara秋葉原
There is no Akiba shrine in Akihabara. The one the district is named for was moved three kilometres away in 1888, to make room for the railway.
Down the side streets
Mandarake Complex · Super Potato Akihabara · The Back-Alley Route to Kanda Myojin Shrine · Gachapon Kaikan · Kanda River Evening Walk
Ueno上野
For most of the twentieth century this was where the north of Japan arrived in Tokyo — the overnight trains terminated here and everyone walked straight out.
Down the side streets
Kiyomizu Kannon-do (Kaneiji) · Shinobazu Pond (Benten-do area) · Shitamachi Museum (formerly the Shitamachi Folk Museum) · Yanaka Cemetery & Shotengai · Okachimachi Jewelry Town · Kayaba Coffee (カヤバ珈琲) · Gyoza Stalls Inside Ameyoko Center Building (アメ横センタービル地下) · Usagiya (Dorayaki)
Roppongi六本木
Six trees, or six households whose names carried the character for tree. Neither account has been proved, and no tree is left to settle it.
Down the side streets
Tokyo Midtown Hinokicho Park at dusk · Nogi Shrine and General Nogi's Residence · Azabu-Juban Shotengai Shopping Street · Keyaki-zaka Street Illuminations · Azabu Tofu Shops on Azabu-Juban Shotengai
Yanesen谷根千
Not on any map. The name is a contraction of three neighbourhoods, coined in 1984 by a quarterly magazine the residents started themselves.
Down the side streets
Yuyake Dandan Sunset View · The Cats of Yanaka · HAGISO · Echigoya Sake Shop
Sugamo巣鴨
The Jizo at the centre of this district is never shown. By the temple's own account the image was taken from a seal less than three centimetres across.
Down the side streets
Somei Cemetery (Somei Reien) · The Vintage Shotengai Back Alleys · Somei-Yoshino Cherry Memorial Park · Maruji, the Red Underwear Shop
West
Shibuya渋谷
A brook from a school song of 1912 still runs under these streets, culverted. The crowd on the crossing is walking on top of it.
Down the side streets
Hyakkendana, the Old Quarter Behind Dogenzaka · Shibuya River Street (Riverside Promenade) · Daikanyama T-Site (about a 17-minute walk from Shibuya) · Nonbei Yokocho (Drunkard's Alley) · Kaikaya by the Sea
Harajuku原宿
For nearly twenty years, what is now Yoyogi Park was an American housing estate of 827 houses that you could not enter.
Down the side streets
Design Festa Gallery · Yoyogi Park Crow Market Area · Meiji Shrine Inner Garden in Iris Season · Laforet Harajuku Grand Bazar · Kyushu Jangara Ramen · Anniversaire Cafe Omotesando · Mizuho (mame-daifuku)
Shinjuku新宿
A post town that townsmen paid the shogunate for the right to build, in 1697, because the first stage out of Nihonbashi had been set too far away.
Down the side streets
Golden Gai · Hanazono Shrine Night Visit · Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) · Getting Deliberately Lost in Shinjuku Station · Tokyu Kabukicho Tower Observation Area · Shinjuku Nakamuraya Manna · Kabukicho Korea Town (Okubo-dori area) · Standing Soba at Shinjuku Station Platforms
Nakano中野
A building that grew out of a two-tsubo bookshop, and the ground that once held a hundred thousand dogs. Both are north of Nakano Station
Down the side streets
Tetsugakudo Park · Mandarake Nakano · heavysick ZERO · Sugorokuya (Analogue Games Shop) · Sarashina Sohonten, north exit shop · Standing Bars (Tachinomi) on North Exit Alleys
Shimokitazawa下北沢
The lower reach of a stream called Kitazawa. The stream is culverted now and survives as a green walkway; Kami-Kitazawa is simply the top of the same water.
Down the side streets
Mikan Shimokita · Suzunari Theater · Record Shop Crawl · Shimokitazawa Shelter · New York Joe Exchange · Bonus Track
Nishiogikubo西荻窪
A hollow where reeds grew, until the station opened in 1922. The antique shops are not on the main street — they are in the lanes behind it.
Down the side streets
Aketa no Mise (Jazz Basement) · Beatnik Groove Store · Chisan Marché Nishiogikubo · Donguri-sha
South
Shinagawa品川
Named Shinagawa, addressed in Minato Ward — the old post town is a kilometre from here
Down the side streets
The old Tokaido at Shinagawa-juku (Kita-Shinagawa shopping street) · Shinagawa Shrine · Yoganji Temple · The canals and boardwalk at Tennozu Isle · TERRADA ART COMPLEX · Archi-Depot · MoN Takanawa: The Museum of Narratives · The Takanawa side, mid-rebuild
Meguro目黒
The road drops the moment you leave the station. Everything named Meguro lies at the bottom of the hill
Down the side streets
Gyonin-zaka Slope · O-Shichi's Well · Meguro Parasitological Museum · Otori Shrine · Taikobashi Bridge · Gonnosuke-zaka Shotengai
Togoshi Ginza戸越銀座
The shopping street was paved in 1927 with the stone Ginza tore up after the earthquake, and took the name along with the bricks.
Down the side streets
Togoshi Ginza Onsen · Togoshi Hachiman Shrine (戸越八幡神社) · Shoryu-ji Temple Area Back Streets · Motsuyaki Togaya · Nakatsu Karaage Kei, Togoshi-Ginza main shop
Kamata蒲田
A shitamachi district that once made films, still working as a gateway to Haneda
Down the side streets
Shochiku Kamata Studio site (Ota Citizens' Hall Aprico) · Seiseki Kamata Umeyashiki Park