両国

Ryogoku

A sumo town with a park for the earthquake dead at its centre.

Ryogoku takes its name from Ryogoku Bridge, built after the Great Meireki Fire of 1657 across the Sumida River, which once divided the provinces of Musashi and Shimosa. It is home to the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo arena and the Sumo Museum inside it. Near the station are the Edo-Tokyo Museum, which traces Tokyo from the Edo period to modern times, and the Sumida Hokusai Museum, devoted to Katsushika Hokusai. Yokoamicho Park stands on the site of an army clothing depot, where about 38,000 people who had fled there died in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923.

Sightseeing

Classic

Edo-Tokyo Museum

5 min walk

A large-scale museum tracing Tokyo's transformation from Edo-period castle town to modern metropolis. The permanent collection uses life-size reconstructions and original artefacts to walk visitors through roughly 400 years of urban history.

Buying a ticket online in advance is strongly recommended — queues form even on weekdays.

Closed Monday. Tuesday–Friday and Sunday 9:30–17:30. Saturday 9:30–19:30.

“I visited the Edo-Tokyo Museum after its March renovation. I thought I could skip buying a web ticket since it was a weekday — big mistake. There were hundreds of people in line at 10:30. I strongly recommend purchasing tickets online in advance. That said, three ticket machines kept things moving, so the wait was only about 30 minutes.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

Classic

Ryogoku Edo NOREN

1 min walk

A food-and-culture complex built inside the old JR Ryogoku Station building, steps from the ticket gates. Multiple restaurants serving Edo-style cuisine share the space with a sumo ring replica and souvenir stalls.

It opens at 10:00 and stays open until 23:00 every day, so it works equally well for lunch after the museum or a late dinner after an evening event.

Open daily 10:00–23:00.

“Ryogoku Edo NOREN is right next to JR Ryogoku Station — a handy complex where sightseeing, dining, and souvenir shopping come together in one visit. Step out of the ticket gates and you are already surrounded by Edo sumo culture and the atmosphere of the old shitamachi.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

Classic

Sumo Museum

3 min walk

Located inside the Kokugikan, this free museum preserves sumo's history from the Edo period to the present day. One floor displays kesho-mawashi ceremonial aprons, yokozuna championship belts, woodblock prints, and tournament rankings — items rarely seen outside this building.

Entry is free, but the museum is closed on Saturdays and Sundays, so plan a weekday visit.

Open Monday–Friday 10:00–16:30. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

“I visited on a weekday in late February. The Sumo Museum, inside the Kokugikan, aims to preserve sumo's history and culture for future generations, and admission is free. Ceremonial aprons of famous wrestlers, yokozuna belts, woodblock prints, and tournament rankings from the Edo period through to today — a rare collection all on one floor.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

Classic

Ekoin

5 min walk

Ekoin was founded in 1657, after the Great Meireki Fire killed more than 100,000 people, to bury the victims no one could identify. Sumo was first held in its grounds in 1768, and from 1833 until the old Ryogoku Kokugikan opened in 1909 it was sumo's regular venue. The main hall enshrines Amida Buddha, with a thousand Jizo figures behind. Stand on the lotus marker on the ground in front of the hall and clap, and the echo sounds like a dragon's cry (the Nakiryu). The Nembutsu corridor linking the Nembutsu Hall and the main hall holds a row of 108 rosary beads, with Buddhas and bodhisattvas carved inside the large parent beads. At the grave of Nezumi Kozo, it is said that if you scrape a little from the stone in front while making a wish and keep the powder, the wish will come true. There is also a monument to Torii Kiyonaga, known for his pictures of beautiful women, and a Hotei figure at the temple office entrance whose hand you can touch.

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Ekoin's gate, with its name plaque under the roof and Nio guardian statues on both sides

Photographed September 2026

Local secret

Kyu-Yasuda Garden

5 min walk

A Japanese garden within walking distance of Ryogoku Station. It was built as a tidal garden, drawing water from the Sumida so that the level of the pond rose and fell with the tide. You can walk a circuit around the water.

Free admission. Right next to the Kokugikan, making it an easy stop before or after watching sumo.

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Photographed September 2026

Local secret

Sumida River Promenade

A riverside walking path runs along the Sumida near Ryogoku, where you can watch houseboats drift by at an easy pace. The stretch under the elevated expressway stays shaded even in summer, making for a cool walk.

The night view is lovely too — try timing your walk for after sunset, when the illuminated houseboats reflect on the water.

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Local secret

Yokoamicho Park & Tokyo Memorial Hall

9 min walk

The park commemorates the two disasters that erased this part of Tokyo: the 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake and the 1945 firebombing. The Memorial Hall holds the remains of victims of both. Alongside it, the Reconstruction Memorial Museum displays objects recovered from the ruins — twisted metal, scorched everyday things — and entry is free. Almost no foreign visitors come here.

Free to enter, and quiet on any weekday. About 8 minutes on foot from the station, and a natural pairing with the Edo-Tokyo Museum nearby.

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Local secret

Sumida Hokusai Museum

12 min walk

A museum devoted to Katsushika Hokusai, who was born in this district, in a building designed by architect Kazuyo Sejima. The permanent collection is uncrowded even by Tokyo standards.

The museum shop's Hokusai merchandise is a cut above the souvenir shops in Asakusa — worth a look even without visiting the exhibits.

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Photographed September 2026

Food & Drink

Classic

Tsukishima Monja Moheji Ryogoku

1 min walk

A monjayaki restaurant beside Ryogoku Station with an Edo-flavoured interior and an energetic dining room. Staff cook the batter in front of you at the table, which makes it approachable even for first-timers.

Saturday and Sunday opening is at 10:30, half an hour earlier than weekdays. Peak sumo-tournament weekends fill up fast — arriving early or booking ahead helps.

Monday–Friday 11:00–23:00. Saturday–Sunday 10:30–23:00.

“I visited Tsukishima Monja Moheji beside Ryogoku Station. The Edo-style exterior and lively atmosphere had me excited before I even sat down. Staff cook everything right in front of you with impressive skill, so first-timers can enjoy authentic monjayaki without any anxiety. This time I tried popular options featuring mentaiko and cheese.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

Classic

Chanko Kirishima Ryogoku Main

2 min walk

A chanko specialist working from the Mutsu stable's recipe. Vegetables and meat go into a soy-based broth in layers — the pot the wrestlers themselves have eaten from.

It closes for a break around two or three, so a late lunch needs care.

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Photographed July 2026

Classic

Tonkatsu Hasegawa

3 min walk

A tonkatsu house that has been named to Tabelog's hundred-best list. The dish it is known for is a loin cutlet of Hiraboku sangen pork, served to be eaten with salt and wasabi rather than sauce.

Three minutes on foot from Ryogoku Station. It has also been picked up in the Michelin Bib Gourmand listing.

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The Memory of This Town

The Empty Lot

Abroad, Ryōgoku means sumo. At the centre of the district, though, is a park that exists because of what happened on the ground it covers. Until 1919 this was the Army Clothing Depot, a factory for military uniforms. When the depot moved out to Akabane, it left a wide open lot, and the city began turning it into a park.

The earthquake struck at 11:58 on the morning of 1 September 1923. People from the surrounding streets fled to the lot precisely because it was open ground with nothing to fall or burn, and they brought what they could carry — bedding, furniture, carts piled with belongings. By the afternoon nearly forty thousand people were packed into it. At around four o'clock a fire whirl formed. The possessions they had carried in became the fuel. Roughly thirty-eight thousand people died on this one piece of land, more than half of all the deaths in the city of Tokyo.

In 1930 a hall was built here to hold the remains that could not be identified. It was designed by Itō Chūta, the architect of Tsukiji Hongan-ji, and it looks like a temple, though it is reinforced concrete, built to resist fire and shaking. In 1948 the unidentified remains of those killed in the firebombing of Tokyo were brought here as well, and in 1951 the building was renamed the Tokyo Memorial Hall. Two disasters, twenty-two years apart, are held in the same room. The Kokugikan is a few minutes' walk away.

Yokoamichō Park, about seven minutes on foot from Ryōgoku Station. The Memorial Hall and the Reconstruction Memorial Museum in the same park are both free to enter.
Memorial services are held on 1 September and 10 March, the anniversaries of the earthquake and of the 1945 firebombing.

After Dark

Local secret

The Sumida River Terrace at Night

From the riverside walk at Ryogoku, look out at the darkened river. The lights of the far bank and of passing yakatabune pleasure boats fall on the water.

The Sumida River bridges managed by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government are lit from 15 minutes after sunset until 11pm (bridges under repair are dark). Some stretches of the terrace are closed for works, so check the notices at the entrance.

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Where to Stay

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APA Hotel & Resort Ryogoku-Ekimae Tower

4 min walk

A high-rise hotel directly in front of Ryogoku Station, rising to 30 floors. It features a large public bath with an open-air section, and a pool on the top floor.

Upper-floor rooms offer good views of the area. The large communal bath is underground, so there is no outdoor scenery from it — keep that in mind when choosing between the bath and the rooftop pool.

“I stayed in a Superior Twin on the 30th-floor Sky Floor. The room was not as large as I had imagined, but the view from the window was good and the beds were comfortable. The large TV was a nice touch. The communal bath is spacious and has an open-air section, but because it is underground you cannot enjoy any view. I wished the pool and the bath could swap floors.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

Dai-ichi Hotel Ryogoku

8 min walk

A hotel connected almost directly to Toei Oedo Line Ryogoku Station, keeping you dry even in rain. JR Ryogoku Station requires a short walk. A convenience store is on the ground floor.

If you are arriving by Toei Oedo Line, the near-direct connection is a genuine convenience. If you are coming by JR, budget a few extra minutes of walking.

“I stayed on a weekday. The connection from Toei Oedo Ryogoku Station is so close it is practically direct — no getting wet in the rain. JR Ryogoku is a short walk but not an inconvenient distance. There is a 7-Eleven on the first floor. The rooms are fairly spacious; they feel a little dated but nothing that bothered me.” — Google review

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Photographed July 2026

THE GATE HOTEL Ryogoku by HULIC

4 min walk

A new riverside hotel that opened in November 2020 on the Sumida River. The top floor has a terrace and lounge exclusively for guests, with sweeping views of Skytree and the river.

A 3-minute walk from JR Ryogoku Station. A good pick if a river view matters to you.

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Through the Year

Jan15 days from a Sunday mid-month

Grand Sumo, January Tournament

Ryogoku Kokugikan

The first of the three Tokyo tournaments out of six a year. Bouts run from morning to early evening for fifteen days, with the top-division wrestlers appearing after about 3pm. Same-day tickets can usually be had by queuing in the morning.

Marthe 10th

Memorial service for the Tokyo air raid

Yokoamicho Park, Tokyo Memorial Hall

The unidentified remains of those killed in the air raid of 10 March 1945 are also kept in this hall. A memorial service is held here each year on that date. It is not a visitor event.

May15 days from a Sunday mid-month

Grand Sumo, May Tournament

Ryogoku Kokugikan

The second of the Tokyo tournaments. During the fifteen days, banners line the street from the station to the arena and you may pass wrestlers in yukata. The yakitori sold inside the building is cooked in the basement of the Kokugikan itself.

Julthe last Saturday

Sumida River Fireworks

the Sumida River (two launch sites)

From 7pm to 8.30pm, fireworks go up from two points on the river. The nearer one to Ryogoku Station is the downstream site, between Komagata Bridge and Umaya Bridge; the upstream site is closer to Asakusa. Expect the station and the riverbanks to be extremely crowded, with streets closed to traffic.

Septhe 1st

Memorial service for the Great Kanto Earthquake

Yokoamicho Park, Tokyo Memorial Hall

On 1 September 1923, some 38,000 of the people who fled to this open ground died in a firestorm. The hall was built to hold the remains that could not be identified, and a memorial service is held here each year on that date. It is not a visitor event.

Sep15 days from a Sunday mid-month

Grand Sumo, September Tournament

Ryogoku Kokugikan

The third and last of the Tokyo tournaments in the year, running fifteen days from the end of summer into autumn, after which the rankings shift. The flow of people around the arena changes only while a tournament is on.

Dates shift from year to year. Check the shrine or organiser before you plan around one.

Getting to Ryogoku

From Shibuya31 min1 transfer(change at Akihabara)JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥260

From Shinjuku22 mindirectJR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥260Taking the Chuo rapid and changing at Ochanomizu cuts it to about 17 minutes.

From Tokyo Station13 min1 transfer(change at Akihabara)JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥200

From Ueno12 min1 transfer(change at Akihabara)JR Keihin-Tohoku Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥200

From Ikebukuro29 min1 transfer(change at Akihabara)JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥260

From Shinagawa26 min1 transfer(change at Akihabara)JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥260

From Narita Airport71 min2 transfers(change at Nippori and Akihabara)Keisei Skyliner → JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥2,770

From Haneda Airport39 min2 transfers(change at Hamamatsucho and Akihabara)Tokyo Monorail → JR Yamanote Line → JR Chuo-Sobu Line (Local)¥730Only local Sobu trains stop at Ryogoku. A rapid will carry you past it to Kinshicho.

Times are for a typical daytime weekday and fares are ordinary tickets, rounded. Both change — check a route planner on the day.

Getting There

From Shinjuku, take the Toei Oedo Line direct to Ryogoku (approx. 20 min). From Akihabara, the JR Sobu Line reaches Ryogoku in about 5–7 minutes. From Narita Airport, combine the Narita Express to Tokyo Station then transfer to the Sobu Line (approx. 70–80 min total).

Best Time to Visit

January, May, and September bring Grand Sumo Tournaments to the Kokugikan — the neighbourhood buzzes with fans. Outside tournament weeks, weekday mornings are calm and queues at major spots are short.

Local Tip

JR Ryogoku and Toei Oedo line Ryogoku are a few minutes' walk apart, so check which one your destination is near before you leave the station — the sumo stadium and the museums are on the JR side.

What the Name Means

Ryogoku means two provinces. The Sumida was once the border between Musashi and Shimosa, and the bridge built after the Meireki fire of 1657 joined the two — hence Ryogoku-bashi, and in time the name of the district itself.

The Name in Six Languages

English: Ryogoku
日本語: 両国りょうごく
한국어: 료고쿠
简体中文: 两国
繁體中文: 兩國
ไทย: เรียวโงกุ