Sugamo
A fair-day town that turns around a Jizo no one has ever seen.
The Jizo-dori shopping street, known as the Harajuku of grandmothers. The fair days at Togenuki Jizo fall on the 4th, 14th and 24th of every month, when stalls come out and the crowds grow. Shops selling red underwear, sweet-shops and places to sit down run the length of the street.
The spiritual heart of Sugamo, this temple enshrines Togenuki Jizo, a deity famous for healing ailments. Visitors pour water over the 'Arai Kannon' statue, rubbing the spot on the statue corresponding to their own ailing body part.
Visit on the 4th, 14th, or 24th of each month when a large street market fills the surrounding lanes with food stalls and vendors.
A 780-meter covered and open-air shopping street lined with over 200 shops selling traditional Japanese sweets, pickles, herbal medicines, and the iconic red underwear said to bring good health and luck.
Most shops open around 9–10 AM and many close by 6 PM. Weekday mornings are the best time to chat with shop owners at a leisurely pace.
A Shingon (Buzan school) temple right by the entrance to Jizo-dori, home to a large bronze Jizo Bodhisattva — the third of the Edo Rokujizo, the six great Jizo statues cast to guard the roads out of Edo.
A quiet pause just off the shotengai bustle. Early morning is when the grounds feel most still.
One of Tokyo's oldest metropolitan cemeteries, opened in 1874 in the old Somei village district — the area where the Somei Yoshino cherry was first sold. In late March the long central avenue becomes a tunnel of blossoms visited almost exclusively by locals.
Far quieter than Ueno or Shinjuku at cherry blossom time — a botanical history lesson wrapped in sakura, without a single tour bus in sight.
One street off Jizo-dori the road narrows into a mix of houses and small shops. The shopping street itself is wide and busy; behind it the lanes are thin and almost no cars pass. Hand-painted signs turn up here and there, and chairs set out in front of doorways.
Six minutes on foot. Enter by the small roads leading north off Jizo-dori. It is residential, so walk quietly.
The Somei Yoshino cherry variety — the most planted cherry tree in Japan — was first sold by nursery gardeners of the old Somei village, the area now spanning Sugamo and Komagome. Old cherry trees are scattered through Somei Cemetery today.
Thirteen minutes on foot, but it sits beside Komagome station, so riding one stop on the Yamanote and walking from there is shorter. Open at any hour.
A shop on the Jizo-dori shopping street given over to red underwear. There is a belief that wearing red is good for the health, and this shop trades on nothing else: red haramaki belly warmers, tabi socks, shirts. Several shops of the same family stand along the street.
10:00–17:45. Eleven minutes on foot. The tabi socks are light and take up no room in a bag.
The Jizo-dori shop credited with popularising shio-daifuku — a mochi rice cake of smooth red bean paste with a pinch of salt in the dough. Founded in 1937; the salted version was perfected in 1963.
They are made fresh through the day and best eaten the same day. Open every day, roughly 9:15am to 6:30pm.
Photographed August 2026
A butcher shop on Jizo-dori that fries its wagyu menchi-katsu (minced beef cutlets) and karaage to order, wrapped for eating as you walk.
Ask for whatever has just come out of the fryer — menchi-katsu is at its best within the first few minutes.
No one who comes here has seen the thing at the centre of this district. The Togenuki Jizō of Kōgan-ji is a hidden image; it is not shown. And by the temple’s own account, the principal image — a Jizō of long life — is a likeness taken from a reihan, a seal less than three centimetres across, shaped like a knot of wood, which a parishioner named Tatsuke Matashirō is said to have received in 1713 from a Jizō who appeared to him in a dream. The crowds that fill Jizō-dōri, the fair held on every day with a four in it, all turn on an object that would sit in the palm of a hand.
What was handed out instead was paper. The omikage is a paper slip held to be a part of the image itself. Around 1715, a serving woman in the Mōri family’s mansion swallowed a needle; she was given one of these slips to swallow, and the needle came out again, driven through the printed Jizō. That is where the name comes from — the drawing out of splinters. The temple itself was founded in 1596, east of the Kanda Myōjin shrine, burned in the great fire of 1657 and moved to Shitaya, near what is now Ueno station. It arrived in Sugamo in 1891, by an order of the Tokyo prefectural government. It has only been this district’s temple for about a hundred and thirty years.
The longest queue in the grounds does not form in front of the principal image. It forms at the Arai Kannon, the washing Kannon, which visitors douse with water and wipe with a cloth. The first one, donated in the year the temple came to Sugamo, was retired in November 1992, and a second now stands in its place. Even the nickname — Harajuku for grandmothers — is far newer than the temple, coined in the late 1970s or early 1980s. The main image cannot be seen. What people do here instead is swallow paper and rub stone. The devotion in this district is built less on looking up at something than on putting a hand on it.
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A small, highly-rated hotel three minutes from the station, closer to Sugamo's own scale than a large chain property. Jizo-dori and the temple are both an easy walk.
While slightly outside Sugamo, Tokyu Stay Suidobashi offers spacious rooms with in-room laundry facilities — ideal for longer stays exploring the shitamachi (old downtown) neighbourhoods of northern Tokyo including Sugamo, Komagome, and Yanaka.
Janthe 24th (also 24 May and 24 September)
Togenuki Jizo, Koganji
The 24th of January, May and September are the temple's grand days, with a full service in the main hall at 10:30 and again at 14:30. The fair itself falls on the 4th, 14th and 24th of every month; on those days stalls line Jizo-dori and the hall stays open until eight in the evening.
Nov6–14
Sugamo Jizo-dori
Pots of chrysanthemums are set out along the shopping street. Sugamo grew nursery plants and chrysanthemums in the Edo period, and this was started in the early 1990s in reference to that. The old Nakasendo road is the venue, as it stands.
Dates shift from year to year. Check the shrine or organiser before you plan around one.
Times are for a typical daytime weekday and fares are ordinary tickets, rounded. Both change — check a route planner on the day.
Sugamo is served by the JR Yamanote Line and the Toei Mita Line. On the Yamanote it is two stops from Ikebukuro, and Shibuya, Shinjuku, Tokyo and Ueno all reach it without a change. The Mita Line runs from Meguro through Otemachi and on past here towards Nishi-takashimadaira. Times and fares are in the table below. For Togenuki Jizo and the Jizo-dori shopping street, take the north exit.
The Jizo-dori shopping street holds its fair days on the 4th, 14th and 24th of every month, when the stalls multiply and far more people come to worship. The street looks nothing like it does on an ordinary day, so if you can choose, choose one of those three. Kogan-ji, which holds the Togenuki Jizo, has a small precinct and gets crowded on fair days. For cherry blossom, Somei-Yoshino Sakura Memorial Park is at its best in early April.
Sugamo is a neighbourhood of unhurried elderly Tokyo — slow down your pace, greet shopkeepers, and accept any free samples offered. Most shopowners here speak little English but respond warmly to a smile and a bow. The shotengai is entirely walkable and best explored without a fixed plan.
The origin is disputed. One account says there was a large pond here where ducks nested in numbers; another traces it to sugamo written as sandbank and duck, describing ground facing a bar of the Shakujii River. Both point to waterside terrain.