Shinjuku
A district that never sleeps, begun as a post town townspeople petitioned to open.
Shinjuku Station is served by JR, Keio, Odakyu, Tokyo Metro and Toei lines, and is said to handle more passengers than any other station in the world. The name comes from Naito-Shinjuku, a post station on the Koshu Road between Nihonbashi and Takaido that was approved in 1698. The skyscrapers of Nishi-Shinjuku stand on the site of the Yodobashi Water Purification Plant (about 340,000 square metres), closed in 1965, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government moved here in 1991.
One of Tokyo's largest and most beautiful parks, spanning 58 hectares with French formal, English landscape, and Japanese traditional garden zones. It's a top cherry blossom destination in spring and a serene escape from urban chaos year-round.
Alcohol is officially prohibited inside, so save the beer for after. Arrive early on cherry blossom weekends — gates open at 9 AM and crowds swell fast.
Designed by architect Kenzo Tange, this iconic twin-tower city hall offers free observation decks on both towers at around 202 meters height. On clear days you can see Mt. Fuji to the west — a completely free panoramic view of Tokyo.
The North Tower observation deck is open some evenings until 10:30 PM. Check the official website for closure days as one tower is sometimes shut for maintenance.
Photographed March 2022
With 50+ exits and 200 gates, Shinjuku Station is the world's busiest station and a spectacle in itself. The underground concourse during rush hour (around 8–9 AM) is a mesmerizing human river. Following signs for the 『Southern Terrace』 exit leads to a lovely elevated walkway with cafés and Fuji views on clear mornings.
The Kabukicho branch of this legendary solo-booth ramen chain is open 24 hours, making it the go-to post-midnight meal in the area. Each diner sits in an individual booth, customizes their tonkotsu broth, and receives ramen through a bamboo curtain — an introvert's dream dining experience.
You can add a second helping of noodles. Even late at night the queue moves quickly.
A tempura house founded in 1924. The original main building closed at the end of May 2026 to be rebuilt, and since June 2026 the restaurant has been operating as the Bekkan — an annex a minute away on the 6th floor and basement of the TRES SHINJUKU building. Same staff, same light batter and seasonal ingredients, fried in front of you at the counter.
Lunch is set meals, the evening mostly courses. The main building is due to reopen around autumn 2028.
The basement floors of Takashimaya Times Square on the south side of the station house one of Tokyo's finest depachika (department store food halls), with premium wagashi, pastries, bento, and prepared foods from dozens of famous brands. Perfect for edible souvenirs or a gourmet picnic in Shinjuku Gyoen.
Visit around 6–7 PM for discounted bento and prepared foods marked down before closing. Arrive early on weekends for limited-edition wagashi that sell out quickly.
Established in 1901 as a bakery, Nakamuraya created Japan's first 『authentic Indian curry』 in 1927, inspired by a friendship with Indian independence activist Rash Behari Bose. The curry restaurant on the upper floors of the flagship building is beloved by Tokyo old-timers but missed by most tourists.
11:00–22:00. Five minutes on foot, two floors below ground in the Nakamuraya building. The same building holds a free exhibition room on the company's history.
Just east of Kabukicho along Okubo-dori lies one of Tokyo's most vibrant Korean communities, packed with Korean BBQ restaurants, K-beauty shops, and street food stalls selling tteokbokki and hotteok. This is where Tokyo's Korean residents actually eat, not the polished K-food restaurants in Shibuya.
Turn off Okubo-dori into the side streets and you find Korean grill houses open until two or three in the morning, and set-meal places whose menus are in Korean only.
There are standing soba and udon counters on the platforms and inside the concourse at Shinjuku. A hot bowl with a proper stock, eaten standing among people on their way home from work. The point of the place is to finish in a few minutes and catch the next train.
The counters on the platforms are inside the gates: you need a valid ticket or IC card to reach them. The one on the Odakyu platform has the better reputation.
This district began as a post station that townsmen paid for the right to build. The first stop on the Kōshū highway had been placed at Takaido, roughly four ri from Nihonbashi — too far for a traveller’s first stage. In 1697 Kihei, a headman from Abekawachō in Asakusa, and four others petitioned to put a station in between, offering to pay the government 5,600 ryō for the privilege. Permission came in the sixth month of 1698; the shogunate took land for it from the estate of the Naitō family and others, and the station opened in the second month of 1699. A new station, so: Naitō Shinjuku, Naitō’s new lodging. Twenty years later it was abolished over its disorderly houses, and it took fifty-four years to come back.
The second remaking of this ground was about water. On 1 December 1898 the Yodobashi purification works began sending out water drawn from the Tamagawa aqueduct — the first modern waterworks in Tokyo. The site covered 341,000 square metres. But the district kept growing around it, and from the end of the Taishō era local residents were petitioning to have the waterworks moved somewhere else. In 1960 a new plant at Higashimurayama took over the work, and on 31 March 1965 Yodobashi closed.
That left 341,000 square metres empty on the western edge of the city centre. The Shinjuku sub-centre plan followed: the Keiō Plaza Hotel in 1971, then the Sumitomo and Mitsui towers, and in 1991 the Metropolitan Government moved its offices here. What lies under the towers of Nishi-Shinjuku is the floor of the settling basins that once filtered the water for the whole of Tokyo. For three hundred years this ground has been rebuilt each time somebody asked for permission to put something on it. Only the name has stayed as it started: the new lodging.
Japan's most famous entertainment district dazzles with towering neon signs, game centers, host clubs, and an electric street energy that peaks after midnight. The newly built Kabukicho Tower has added cinemas, restaurants, and a hotel to the mix.
Walk through around 9–10 PM for the full neon spectacle. Keep valuables secure and be aware of tout solicitation on the main drag.
Photographed January 2024
A labyrinth of roughly 200 tiny bars crammed into six narrow alleyways, each seating no more than a dozen people. Unlike the tourist-polished version of Tokyo, Golden Gai has survived urban redevelopment and still feels like 1970s Shinjuku, frequented by writers, filmmakers, and off-duty chefs.
Most of the bars add a seat charge on top of what you order. The amount differs from bar to bar, so read the sign at the door or ask before sitting down. Some places are for regulars only, but a bar with English on the sign, or a photo menu taped to the door, is one you can walk into.
This compact Inari shrine sits just two minutes from the chaos of Kabukicho and is completely overlooked by tourists. At night, the red lanterns glow and the atmosphere is almost otherworldly, with locals stopping for a quiet prayer between bar hops.
The flea market held on weekends (roughly twice a month on Sundays) is beloved by vintage hunters and practically unknown to foreign visitors. Check local listings for dates.
A narrow alley of smoky yakitori stalls that survived postwar redevelopment and still clings to the west side of Shinjuku Station. It seats barely 100 people total across all stalls, and the yakitori smoke drifts out into the street like an open invitation.
Go on a weekday — weekends draw crowds and some stalls fill by 7 PM. Sit at the counter, let the master recommend the daily skewers, and order the 『motsu』 (offal) if you're adventurous.
From the upper floors of the Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, opened in 2023, you look straight down onto the neon of Kabukicho. This is not a place for the horizon, the way the Metropolitan Government observatory is; it is a place for the brightness of the street below.
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Immortalized by the film 『Lost in Translation,』 the Park Hyatt occupies floors 39–52 of a skyscraper in Nishi-Shinjuku, with floor-to-ceiling windows, the legendary New York Bar, and some of the best city views in Tokyo. Service is impeccably refined.
A landmark in Nishi-Shinjuku since 1971, Keio Plaza is a full-service hotel with multiple restaurants, a pool, and over 1,400 rooms. It connects directly to the underground walkway network and is popular with both business and leisure travelers seeking reliability and convenience.
Hidden in a quiet street near Shinjuku City Hall (Kuyakusho-mae), this capsule hotel is used almost exclusively by Japanese businesspeople and offers an authentic capsule experience — spotlessly clean pods, a communal bath, and zero tourist theater. It's steps from Golden Gai, making it ideal for a late-night bar crawl base.
MaySat–Mon nearest the 28th
Hanazono Shrine
The festival of the shrine that sits right beside Kabukicho. The neighbourhood mikoshi go through the lanes of the entertainment district, so the shrine is carried under the neon.
Julthe last Saturday
around the east and west exits of Shinjuku Station
Eisa, the Okinawan drum dance, performed on the streets on both sides of Shinjuku Station. Groups with drums take separate streets, so the way to watch it is to walk between them.
Novthe days of the rooster
Hanazono Shrine
A market selling decorated rakes. Depending on the year there are two rooster days in November or three. A sideshow tent stands in the grounds — one of the very few such acts left anywhere in the country.
Dates shift from year to year. Check the shrine or organiser before you plan around one.
Times are for a typical daytime weekday and fares are ordinary tickets, rounded. Both change — check a route planner on the day.
Shinjuku is served by the JR Yamanote, Chuo and Sobu lines, the Keio and Odakyu lines, the Marunouchi subway, and the Toei Shinjuku and Oedo lines; no station in the world handles more passengers. The Narita Express runs direct from Narita in about 90 minutes. From Haneda the standard route is the Keikyu line to Shinagawa and the JR Yamanote from there, about 40 minutes.
Cherry blossom season (late March to early April) transforms Shinjuku Gyoen into one of Tokyo's most stunning sights. Summer (July–August) brings matsuri festivals and vibrant street energy but high humidity. Autumn foliage in the Gyoen (November) is underrated. Year-round, the nightlife peaks on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Shinjuku Station's west exit underground plaza (『Nishi-guchi Chikashitsu』) was historically a gathering point for homeless communities and countercultural figures — a complex social history worth reading about. For navigation, use the 『My Shinjuku』 app or follow the color-coded floor maps at each major exit. If you're heading to Golden Gai, the east exit path via Studio Alta building is the most direct.
The name means the new post town. In 1698, the stretch between Nihonbashi and Takaido being judged too long, a new station was opened on the Koshu highway. The land had belonged to the Naito family, lords of Takato in Shinano, so it was called Naito-Shinjuku; in time only Shinjuku remained.